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You've probably noticed there are dozens of methods/terminology for identifying snap sizes. Some refer to the size and/or length of the screw used to fasten the stud; others use diameter of the stud barrel - but is it inside or outside-diameter? We provide every possible measurement so you know what you're getting. But first, here are the (generally accepted) standard terms for the snap components and how they all fit together: The STUD is the base or bottom of the snap and has a raised rim with a lip on it called the barrel. The studs in this set are attached to wood, fiberglass or other solid material by galvanized steel screws (included). The SOCKET is the top-half of the snap and has a ring that's slightly larger than the barrel of the stud. To close the snap, the socket is forced over the barrel of the stud and makes a 'snap' sound (at least most agree on where the name came from!) The socket has a center hole and is attached to canvas or other material by means of a dome-shaped CAP with a hollow tube protruding from the underside. A small hole is cut/punched in the canvas/fabric where you want the snap located, usually with a hollow punch or other tool (not included). The tube of the cap is put through the hole from the top side of the fabric and then through the socket. The cap and socket - with the fabric between them - are permanently mated by rounding-over or flaring the end of the tube with the flaring tool, silver bottom anvil base (for the top part of the button) and black top base (included). DIMENSIONS: stud barrel inside diameter 1/4", OD 3/8"; stud barrel height 3/16", stud diameter at base 1/2". Stud screw major diameter .125 (1/8") (#8), screw length from bottom of stud 5/8". Socket inside diameter .37", OD .53", socket height .15". Cap diameter .58", tube OD .15", tube length 3/16". Additional pieces available separately.
Portion showing how to fix a tear on the seam of a boat cover permanently with Tear Mender. Save time and money by making quick repairs to keep your building blocks wo...
Anyone have suggestions to repair the snaps on a flexile tonneau cover? How do you remove the ruined snaps? Is it worth it to repair, or should I just replace the cover?
go to a thalassic store and they sell the whole kit ...kits include both parts of the snap and the tool for removing and replacing them....in boating this is a low-grade repair for canvas
purchasing a "patch" kit. Check out outdoor/camping stores. This will be the best way. Or, check out sewing stores for their patch kit. I am guaranteed, they would have something to help out. good luck.
i have a '91 pontiac sunbird convertible. there is a 14inch gore in the top and i need to get it fixed asap, where should i go? (somwhere near toms river, NJ)
Kim, In Toms river! Amiable peasy! Take it to any of the marine supply places that specialize in canvas boat cover repair. There's got to be a dozen of them local to you. They'll make a functional fix for cheap. Maybe...
Does your boat’s topsides look worn out. Does polish and buffing do little to make the hull look good. Have you had the boat for five to seven years and never repainted it. If you solution yes to any of the above questions, it may be time to repaint the topsides. Former president of Interlux and now with Quantum Paints , Steve Schultz says, “98% of painting is preparation and you can do all the prep exertion yourself. ” In fact, the only part a professional spray operator needs to do is the actual topside spraying which usually takes less than one day in the dissemination booth and two or three days to thoroughly dry, depending on the ambient temperature. For a few hundred dollars and some dust under your fingernails you can spread the boat’s value by thousands of dollars. The first step in any repaint job is to fill any cracks, dings and dents and get the hull absolutely soft. If you are working on a fiberglass hull, first clean the entire hull using soap and water. Repair any dings and dents using a maritime filler such as Interlux ’s Interfill, Awlgrip ’s professional Awlfair, or an equivalent product from any other manufacturer. If you cannot get any of these professional products, use a inconsiderable polyester or epoxy resin and add micro-balloons until the mixture is the consistency of peanut butter. Use a plastic spatula to address the mixture after you have mixed it. Be sure to wear a dust mask. If your hull is very rough or you need to remove a aforesaid paint layer use 100 or 120-grit. For fairly smooth hulls use 220 or 300-grit. You will also demand some 320 and 400-grit for the final sanding. Sand the entire hull until it is perfectly smooth. Use a large flexible batten to check for smoothness. On a 12 meter boat the criteria for smoothness was that you could not get a piece of paper under the batten, but you do not require to go that far. Only when the hull is smooth should you wipe it down with a solvent. At this stage I would advise that you have a professional look at it. If you are changing color from a devilish to light color, for example, the professional might recommend an undercoat to cover the dark color. A good professional will also tell you where the skin is unfair or has any other problems. As soon as the hull is acceptable, it should be undercoated with a hi-build primer. Remember to cover the entire deck or you may get overspray on it. You can also enfold-and-tip the primer layer to reduce the cost of having it sprayed. The primer helps to smooth out minor imperfections and will beggary to be sanded thoroughly. Use 320 to 400-grit to sand the topsides smooth. Note: Some painters recommend no finer than 320 intrepidity to give the topsides a rough enough finish for good paint adherence. Wipe the topsides down with a solvent to remove any dust dregs and oil or grease. Be aware that oils from your hands can mar the final surface so keep your hands off. After the primer has been sanded, many painters will use an undercoat the same color as the topcoat to guard the primer color does not affect the finished top coat color. If an undercoat has been sprayed on, you will need to sand it with 320 to 400 guts. By priming and sanding you can spot any problems and fix them before the topcoat is applied. Only after the hull is perfectly smooth should the topcoat be sprayed. Do not go into the reach booth without a respirator when the hull is being painted. Leave the hull in the. Source: www.allatsea.net
The Canadian sold his car to cover airfare to the Philippines. His guv donated $3,000. Even so, his rescue mission began like a nightmare. MORE: Canadian sells car, flies to the liberating of injured fiancee in Philippines. When he arrived in the
Allot Canvas Boat Cover Repair Facilities In Your Area!
This article takes an up-private look at the different boat cover snaps. There are different types of snaps for different applications, depending upon angles and wind ...
Canvas Boat Cover and Repair Advisor. Skilled in of the EZ-Zipper boat cover repair products and related canvas repair products.
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Attwood Corporation Canvas Bridle/Repair Kit Attwood Corporation Canvas Rein/Repair Kit ##### Thanks for shopping. The Boat Cover Repair Kit for Canvas ...